More Blaster Improvements - Blasting Engines + Transmissions

More Blaster Improvements are on the way.  With the double doors done up front and the articulating tractor up there I could now move the blaster to where I could get the forklift to the blaster.  That was part of the plan that started this little part of it.  

The one being restored now (Carson's) is really nice so instead of spending countless hours getting the motor down to bare cast iron as good as possible I thought if it were in the blaster I could do 3-4 hours work and a better job in less than 1 hour.  I had already spent several hours on the transmission stripping it down but there will be no more of that either...

The blaster needed a part that took it down for this week so now was a good time to do yet another part of this.  First here are some pics of the engine pieces to make it blaster proof.  This setup to close up the motor can be used over + over so that part is done.  

 

This part is where the blaster is now and the forklift putting the motor in it.

 

I think more time was spent stopping to move the motor around than actual blasting but there's a plan for that as well that will be finished up today.  

This is the result of what the blaster did in no time.

 

Closer inspection on the bench shows it is completely down to the metal, even behind and under the starter, and in-between all of the engine and head cooling fins that couldn't be done by hand.  I couldn't be happier with the results let alone the time saved to do the best work possible.  

 

When the engine was painted it came out like brand new from the factory.  No rust or old paint or paint lines from where it couldn't be accessed doing it the old way.  

 

Now on to the main thing, a trolley system in the blaster to hold up motors, transmissions, or anything heavy and awkward. 

I looked around to get some ideas but couldn't find where anyone had done this before.  Lot's of turn tables, slide outs, and floor mounted rolling carts to get things in the blaster but nothing to hang and spin parts to make the job a lot better and faster.  So here is what I came up with...

The blaster is pretty strong but I wanted to make sure I didn't mess something else up so the top angle above the doors was reinforced with 1-1/2 x 3/16" angle iron.  The original welds were done from the outside there so it had to be welded from the inside first so I could grind down the outside welds for the new angle iron.  The back was just cut at a 45 and welded to the original weld.  The other nice thing is those outside corners were rolled a little from the bending process so the inside roll on the angle iron fit it perfectly.  

 

Adding the angle iron moved the door safety switches up a little so the brackets went in the mill to make the switch bolt adjustable.  

I had never done the rubber improved seal on the right door because it wasn't used previously so it got done while it was out being worked on.  I also had lower improved rubber seals for the bottom of the doors that were never done so they were done as well.  The original seals were just stick on foam of some type and were in pretty bad shape.  The rubber seals have been in the back for over 10 years, as long as I have had this blaster.  

 

Now on to the trolley system.  Now that the blaster was plenty strong enough it was time to add the trolley track.

There will be grade 9 bolts in each end going up to the new angle iron when done but first it had to be set up and screwed in to the cabinet.  There are 4 self cutting screws in there now holding the track where it goes.  I can lift myself up with it now so I guess the angle iron was over kill but that's ok.  I also had elevator bolts out to put in there later but the trolley clears the self cutters even with a washer on them so I'll just leave them in there.  At least I won't have to worry about a motor or transmission dropping into the hopper, that would be really bad... 

The track is 12 gauge and good for over 1,000 lbs, the trolley safety load is 3500 lbs, break strength is 6300 lbs with all bearing steel so it is more than enough for what I'm doing with it.

The rail had to be behind the front air flow curtain holes to keep the glass clear, and the down flow holes.  It just happen to be perfect to where I wanted the track to be.  It also worked out perfect with the door opening so I can remove the trolley if need be.  

I'm off now to finish it up so it can get back to work next week when the part I need comes in for it today.